MANNAR …where the Donkey Sleep Standing and Birds a Galore

 

Many of us from S Thomas’s Collage Gurutalawa [STCG]; a school in the central hills of Sri Lanka are fond of out-bound living and are very much into Bird watching. Professor Sarath W Kotagama was one who made ornithology his profession at the Zoology Department of the University of Colombo. He pioneered the forming of ‘The Field Ornithology Group of Sri Lanka [FOGSL]’ in the year 1976; to promote awareness of bird conservation to the masses and in return to get their assistance in the scientific study of birds.

Areas outside the north of Sri Lanka have been studied of birds and much of the birding locations identified. It is only now that the localities in the north of Sri Lanka are being reached for birding.The 30 year civil war prevented access to the north, until 2009. FOGSL has now expanded its bird research activities into the Jaffna Peninsula and the District of Mannar.

FOGSL has an annual birding calendar to identified locations. The Mannar bird count for 2013 was scheduled from the 13th -16th  December 2013. 

We left Colombo in the early hours on Friday 13th with stops for breakfast at Waikkala and lunch at Anuradhapura. Thanks to the better roads after the war, we reach Mannar by 2.30/3.00 in the evening. Accommodation had been organized at the Army’s 54th Division HQ in Mannar. We unload our baggage to a typical boarding school dormitory with bunk beds. The six ladies in the group were also provided accommodation in bunks but separated by a board partition. My memory ran back 40 years to my boarding school and opted to sleep in an elevated position. Settled down with bag and bedding we decide to waste no time with birding. We had a list of specialities to be seen on this trip. After a cup of tea we leave the camp gates towards Poonarin for an hour or two before sun down in order to judge the potential for birding during this time in Mannar. 

Leaving the 54th Division gates I recall the warring times; it would have been through these very gates that the valiant forces lead by Brig Shavindra Silva marched out in 2007 to rout the LTTE in 2009 

The two hours of birding was a great success and was an indication of what was on line for the three days. We had seen Wigeon ducks, several species of Bitterns a few Raptors and some forest birds. The Black Drongo native to Mannar was everywhere and the migrant Long-tail Shrike is so common here compared to the south. The listing for the two hours in the evening was 63 bird species. 

Back in the dormitory with some overenthusiastic members suggesting a walk to the Mannar causeway to see the Crab Plover through torchlight was never fruitful. We settle to a sumptuous dinner of boiled rice with curried fresh fish and other accompaniment and retire early to bed for we are scheduled to set off by 5.30 in the morning for birding. It’s the time when they are most active.

 

 

Up by dawn we leave for the Vankalai plains for birding along the newly laid railway line still under construction. Just as we get off the bus a family of Grey Francolins are startled and run among the bushes. Not far was a Eurasian Curlew displaying to the shutter bugs. My spotting scope captured much; the Northern Shoveller, Eurasian Wigeon, Northern Pintail and Garganey of the rarer duck species with plenty of the Whistling Ducks seen.

The migrant harriers were so abundant. The Montague's Harrier and the Marsh Harrier with the Common Kestrel hovering on the wing, stalking for prey below. A variety of the Plovers were seen with the migrant Shrikes; the Long Tail, Brown and the Philippine seemed so common over here. Returning for breakfast we stop at the Thalladi pond opposite the camp for a prize sighting of a solitary male Spot-billed Duck among a few Garganey. Again at very close range for excellent pictures to be taken.

After breakfast we cross the causeway to the main Island of Mannar the township. The causeway is a heaven for all species of Egrets and the rare Western Reef Heron. Having seen all of them we proceed to the Mannar saltern. The ‘look out for’ bird was in plentiful….. the Greater Flamingo. Over 284 birds were counted in two locations in the saltern in close proximity to habitation. Of the Gulls, the Heuglin’s Gull, Greater Black-headed Gull and the Brown-headed Gull was in their numbers. With the sun at the peak of its trajectory the birds become inactive and so are the many stray donkeys that sleep standing. We return to camp for a late lunch only to leave by 3.00 in the evening to see them fly back to their roosts for the night. 

The evening was back to the Vankalai plains and the Vankalai pond. The ducks seen during the day were now leaving for the night in the traditional ‘V’ formation. On the way to the pains a special bird that had raised concern and confusion sometime back was thought to have been sighted; The White-headed Stilt? We come back for the night by traversing on the causeway again looking for the Crab Plover with no luck. Just at the camp gate to everybody's surprise we see the Crab Plover trotting in shallow water in the lagoon. It was definitely an exultant way to end a very productive day of birding.

Back at camp we run through the list of sighting for the day which went up to 99 species. We retire for the night with a programme to go looking for the elusive Indian Courser confined to the Mannar district the following day.

Up again early we leave for the Vankalai plains by 5.45 but with lesser sightings than the previous day. After breakfast we leave for Vedithalathive where the LTTE’s sea tigers were very active then, also the location where our special bird was to have been spotted recently. A distance over 20 km we are at a vast marshy plain stretching for over a kilometer. Harsha the sharpest spotter in the group says he sees a dark orange patch moving in the distance. Yes… with the aid of the spotting scope we see three Indian Coursers in the distance. Some of us decide to stalk them once everybody had seen the bird through the spotting-scope. We brave the sticky mud where landmines had been cleared to get a closer glimpse of the bird. It was a beauty through the binoculars. A stray dog attracted by our presence startled the birds into the air and they were no more. This was a lifer for me [seen for the first time] which was celebrated with Elephant House ice cream to the whole group. I’m sure many of the birds seen were lifers to most in the group though?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The evening round was to the Talaimannar Pier for the Gulls. On the way we stop close to Pesalai looking at ducks and wild horses and a number of wildly growing Baobab Trees introduced by the ancient Arab traders who brought camels here for trading and transport. The Baobab is said to have been planted as fodder to the camels. The camel is no more but the Baobab and the horses brought by them have gone wild. We see numerous gulls and egrets at the pier with so much fish caught going waste providing food for them. The Black Kites and Brahmini Kites have to brave the harsh wind to scavenge the beaches. While at the pier we get news of a solitary Pied Avocet in the saltern; and we rush back to see it only silhouetted in the fading light. I promise the group that we come early tomorrow and we would see it in brighter light. The third days come to an end with 113 species sightings. 

Come the following day we leave early for the salterns; as promised the Avocet was there for all the shutter bugs to click away. Another special that morning was the Terek Sandpiper with its upturned beak. We come back for breakfast before leaving to Colombo with a stint of birding over the bund of the Giants Tank with one more new sighting of a Yellow Bittern brought our list up to 120 species in three days. A very productive bird count, which would have been a total success with the Oyster Catcher and the Common Teal seen.

FOGSL has been into this type of outings with basic scientific study for the last 38 years. The membership that had benefited from it runs to over 3000. The message is firmly passed on for sure, as seen by the enthusiasm shown by the participants on this trip. However I am thinking if we are the same as when we started research back in the 1990’s. Today I see more photo happy birders than the real birdwatcher of the past. It’s nothing to be alarmed of though in this materialistic world…. where everything is being commercialized?

The Toque Macaque …has its way in the temple

India and Sri Lanka are two prominent South Asian countries with similar religious beliefs; be it Hinduism or Buddhism both having links in the mainland India and Buddha himself being an Indian. Both religions are close to nature and much of the religious abbeys or temples are located in remote and wildly settings in close proximity to natural habitats away from urbanization. This helped them practice religion through yoga, meditation or even conduct themselves in devotion, living in recluse.

Offering on the altars in these temples were mainly of floral form and food; generally a major portion going waste by the day which was dumped close by. The waste disposed thus attracted both bird and beast in the wild. Of them the primates [monkey] took a dominant role. Hindu mythology offers a greater reverence to Hanuman [the monkey king - a god in the Saga-Ramayana] and thereby the monkey is considered sacred and is free to their wishes in many of these locations. The damage and annoyance caused by them is overlooked…. while the only reason for them to be attracted to these locations is the floral-waste and the food waste. Most species found in our countries are omnivorous and are attracted to human food types as well.

Sri Lanka is home for three monkey species; the Toque Macaque or Toque Monkey [Macaca sinica], the Grey Langur or Hanuman Monkey [Semnopithecus priam] and the Purple-face Leaf Monkey [Trachypithecus vetulus]. Of them the Toque Macaque and the Purple- face are endemic to Sri Lanka and the species sub-divided geographically for them being found island wide. The Grey Langur, predominantly a dry zone species is now making in-roads to the central massif. However of all the three species it is the Toque Macaque that has made its presence felt in most religious locations in Sri Lanka. Toque macaques are so named because of a whirl of hair on their head that resembles a type of hat. Its behaviour is best described in the documentary film shot on location of a scientific study on them by Dr Wolfgang Dittus in Polonnaruwa Sri Lanka. The documentary named “Temple Troop” became world famous and the story goes thus: 

 

   

The struggle between two macaque tribes: the Black Claws, and the Temple Troop. 

 

“The program begins with "Temple Troop", a troop of Toque macaques who live in a temple area known as Fig Tree Vale. The vale is abundant in figs and water. The troop was led by Lear, the king of the troop who had been its dominant male for 4 years. One of Lear's biggest concerns was the threat of deposal, and that threat came with the arrival of Hector. Hector had recently joined the troop and seemed discontent with his position within it. Hector challenged the old king and during a large scuffle, Lear fell to the ground from a tree, which cost him his throne. Hector was the new king of Temple Troop and took full advantage of his new authority. Hector bullied his subordinates, but to secure his regime, he needed the support of Gemini, the matriarch of the Troop. 

 

The Temple Troop's arch rivals, the Black Claws, invaded their territory, and drove the Temple Troop from it. Exiled to the bad lands, the troop were joined by a wandering male called Che, who proved to be an asset, especially to Gemini and Portia. They tried to invade a marketplace but were driven back to the bad lands by a city troop. As Che was settling into the troop, his wandering band of bachelor males returned, giving Hector an excuse to banish him. Che attacked his former band to remain in the troop, and later he convinced both groups to merge. 

 

With more warriors to fight the Black Claws the exile Temple Troop marched towards Fig Tree Vale to confront their ancient foes. 

Black Claws

The Black Claws are a street bred troop of Toque macaques who live in the periphery of Monkey City, relying on tourists for food. The troop's queen, Pandora, tried to use the opportunity of the Temple Troop males' supremacy battle to capture their abundant territory. She and the Black Claws are the drama's antagonists. 

 

The Black Claws' king Goliath led a small attack on the Vale; this was repulsed, but it was followed by a mass invasion from the entire Black Claw troop. Stronger and more numerous, the Black Claws prevailed in the ensuing battle, killing Lear, and expelling the Temple Troop from Monkey City. (The Black Claws had prospered under queen Pandora with the growth in city trash.) 

As Pandora settled into her new territory, a troop of Langur monkeys tried to capture Fig Tree Vale. The Black Claws drove them off, but Pandora disappeared and was found to have died of an unknown cause (ascribed by the program makers to having attacked the sacred Hanuman Langurs). Pandora's youngest daughter, Scarlett became the new queen of the Black Claws. The king of the Black Claws, Goliath, was concerned about the new matriarch, needing to win her favour to remain king. Scarlett was ruthless and greedy with food, not allowing the lower class near any figs. (The Black Claws, comprised two bickering clans: workers & aristocrats, both of which Pandora had dominated.) The leader of this lower clan was Jezebel, who was tired of Scarlett monopolizing the food. Unable to directly defeat Scarlett and her aristocratic sisters, Jezebel led her half of the troop back to their ancestral lands, the car park. To start a troop she needed a king, so she subverted a subordinate Black Claw aristocrat into defection. Scarlett responded with an attack on Jezebel's troop, making her back down. This civil war concludes as Temple Troop begin their march back to Fig Tree Vale.” 

 

[Curtsy http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dark_Days_in_Monkey_City]

 

Another location where the Toque Macaque is found in abundance is the Dambulla Rock Cave Temple in Sri Lanka located within the cultural triangle, a famous tourist and pilgrim location. Pilgrims have to climb the rock about a kilometer to reach the cave temple and one needs to carry your flowers for offering from the foot of the rock. Generally them being lotus pods, and the petals need to be opened to bloom for offering. The corolla of the lotus is a delicacy of the Toque Macaque. They would follow you behind stealthily up the rock and snatch your flowers if carried at leisure at lower arm level. This in a way is a reminder that you carry them at chest level with higher reverence and mindfulness. 

 Full-moon days [Poya-day] and weekends are very populous with visitors in Dambulla and the Toque Monkeys could be seen in abundance in all forms; be it new born young to pregnant females all making use of the fast-food available in the temple premises. On other days of the week they disperse into the forest to feed on the foliage. 

They have a prolific breeding pattern and the dominant male being of a higher order maintains a harem of females. When two troupes meet up its mayhem; the dominant males attacking each other, which at times end up with fatality. The winner would end up with a larger harem or a new male will take possession of the troop as leader.

Their habit of raiding agricultural plots and farmer homes has had an impact on the farming community and the Macaque being a victim to poisoning. Entire troops have been wiped out as a result. However those that habituate these religious abodes seem to thrive in their numbers with the freely available fast food source..........

Class of 66, Meets after 47 Years

It was the beginning of the 6th decade of the 20th century. Year 1961 January  to be precise, around 50 tiny brats mainly boys just completing the 5th year in life are entrusted to the care of a dedicated group of shepherds at St Thomas’ Prep School, Bandarawela [STPS] to be molded into responsible adults in life

Boarding schools then were a few. The famous among them were the  St  Thomas’  Colleges at  Bandarawela, Gurutalawa, Mt Lavinia and the Trinity College in Kandy. They were run privately and most parents preferred boarding school education for their children then, unlike cuddling them at home as done today.

In the year 1961 January, 50 of us from all races, religion and social status came to STPS Banadarawela with our parents; only to be parted in tears for three months  until school closed for term end holidays. All our belongings, clothes and books as listed requirements for the school were packed into a trunk box. The empty trunk box was pushed under the bed until we left for home end of term.

Every activity from then on was to a plan. From waking in the morning and to getting tucked up in bed was to the call of the school bell. Bandarawela had 6 dormitories; Blanchard, Corea, Wjewardane, Edirisinghe, Peirs and Keble,  students got promoted to them annually from LKG to UKG and  Std 2 to Std 5, six years in all. All the dormitories other than Keble had a lady assistant [Ayah] to look into the well being of the boys. Weekends though a playful time, generally had a routine as well. 

The bathing habit fell on the weekends. Ms Luduvyke, known as the ‘sick matron’ [for she was in charge of the sick rooms and our general health and hygiene - Ms Janze was the ‘food matron’ in charge of the kitchen] herded us with the aid of the ayahs Gunawathi and Menike to the spout that flowed through a marshy patch of  land outside  the  school  premises;  we  were soaped  and  scrubbed with  coconut coir fibre by the ayahs.This was also the time to make hell out on the boggy marsh catching tiny fishes, frogs and all other curious water breeds with  our towels used as straining nets. Some fish would be smuggled into the dormitories in empty jam bottles only to find them floating belly up in a day or two. 

Sports activities were dedicated to the three terms of the year. The first term for cricket, second for athletics and the third for soccer then known as football.

School vacation was something that was longed for. The Udaratamenike train to Colombo had a reserved compartment for Mr F R Joseph [FRJ] who would take us home where our parents would pick us from stations on the way to Colombo. Back to school after holidays was in the reverse order with FRJ.   

Finally at the end of the 5th year we were thought to be matured enough to be on our own without an ayah at the Keble dormitory which was located away from the school campus. The routine bell was different at Keble, it had its own time table. The  general school bell was only for class work. Food for Keble students was prepared in the dormitory kitchen separate from those of the general school.

Come end of the 6th year; completing the class in Std 5 named in line with the old British School System we had to leave Bandarawela for other institutions for our secondary education. The last test we sat was an admission test to S Thomas’ College Gurutalawa. The cherubic personality, Mr J W Marasinghe with an oversize waistline would come in the old Morris delivery van from Gurutalawa to conduct three papers for selection to Guru. A speed test in arithmetic timed for twenty minutes, a nightmare for many of us followed by a paper for English language and Tamil or Sinhala language.

Every month of December had a photo session for the school magazine and the farewell of the school leavers who sat for a special dinner with the staff.

In the year 1966 those of us in this picture parted to other schools; many to Guru for another five years only to be parted almost for life.

This picture taken in 1966 was lost for almost thirty years until it was recovered from the old truck box that served me during my school days. The picture went into the Facebook and that is how we are gathered here on this day, 4th October 2013, 47 years after. The date of the photo taken is 14th December 1966 as narrated by Asoka Ranasinghe….. the day before his birthday he remembers.

Today we are gathered here thanks to Manilal de Mel who went to Mt Lavinia from Bandarawela. He deserves all credit for the event in re-uniting us at his purpose built abode for such gatherings. This is a preliminary get-together in preparation for the 50 years celebration that would be in 3 years time says Manilal.

As usual as always the bilingual mixed dialogue [Sinhala or Tamil with English]  that identify us from the others when in conversation was present even after 47 years. The Thomian  spirit was held high. In fact the spirits  flowed too high for me on this day………..yes and that was because we forgot we are over 50 now. We were 47 years younger. Its fare enough to forget your age when the like-minded got together like this I feel.

Standing L/R - Manilal de Mel, Niranjan Jayawickrama, Bandula Vithanage, Wanniarachchi, Nagalingam, Asoka Ranasinghe, Frank Mairando, Cristo Gonawela, Imbulana, Nihal Perera, Wathuhewa, Suresh  Markandan, Vevehanandan 

Seated L/R -  A H M Thowfeek, Uditha Wijesena, Rev Father Coilpillai [he was 24 years old when the pic: was taken] Mithra Edirisinghe [a teacher to us in Guru] Rajaram, Sidath Perera, Ravindra Jayawickrama

Not in the pic – Chandrapala Dissanayake, D S Vithana

This was only about 20 of us here today, we are yet to trace the others including the two girls. Some in contact are outside Sri Lanka. Many are still  to be made contact with. Some may not be with us anymore but we need to know about them. Some may be in need of help to whom we need to assist. The search for them will go on in the next three years.

This was what Asoka had to say of one such dear friend who is no more with us.

Ajith Wanigasekara.

Ajith Wanigesekara  and I were the only 2 from this photo to join Trinity in January 1967 . AJITH is Standing 7th from Right to Left in the last row. At Trinity we were in the same class, same House / Dormitory and played on the same Rugby and Basket Ball teams too. Naturally we were best of friends, as were our families. I was his Bestman when he married in 1986. Later he migrated to OZ. There unfortunately he got MULTIPLE SCLEROSIS ( in short MS ) which is a very rare but a Terminal disease, that affects ones Nervous System . He Retired and came back to Sri Lanka in about 2001 or so. He joined me at the Diyatalawa Camp ( where I was the Commander ) over a long week end and we visited STPS, as we called it during our time there. Later he left for OZ again, and passed away last year, on 17th of May 2012. A Memorial Service was held at All Saint's Church Borella, exactly at the same time his Burial was taking place in Brisbane OZ, and my wife and I joined there family at this difficult time. Ajith was a voracious reader and I once asked him towards his end, about how many Books he had read in his lifetime ? He said 'Definitely over 30,000 plus '. This was our Classmate of 1966. He was a very sincere and a wonderful friend. I will always miss him. May he Rest In Peace.

 

Once again a big thank you to Manila and Hemanthi for organizing this outstanding event. Those outside Sri Lanka need to be in touch for the 50 year gathering which I’m sure is going to be a very memorable one!

Let us all be in Good Health until then.......

[The other photos here are curtsy of Ms Erangany Selvadorai nee Erangany Karunaratne now in Australia a teacher to us in the UKG. She is on FB and would only be very happy to make a link with old B’wela boys.]