A Night Under Canvas in Uda-Walawe…..for Birdwatching before Breakfast

Prabuddha my nephew who runs a small time tour operation calls me in late December 2014 inquiring if I would accept an offer on a very concessionary rate; full board basis to be under canvas for one night at  Wild Trails in Uda Walawe. His inquiry no doubt is because I wouldn't let off such an offer being ever so addicted to be out of doors.

The date is 27th December ……. my family with two other are scheduled to meet at Wild Trails by evening.

Uda Walawe in Sri Lanka is located midland more southwards from the central massif. The township being the nucleus of the Uda Walawe Multipurpose Irrigation and Land Development scheme in the 60’s. Its iconic component is the Uda Walawe reservoir; and its eastern flank and the catchment-area is declared a National Park. The park being of rolling savannah land devoid of large trees and jungle is home for a large elephant population. It is said that when the land was cleared for development the large fauna was trans-located in the park. Its flagship species under conservation is the Asian Elephant.

Though popular among the visitor for the pachyderms, it is no doubt a haven for the birdwatcher….and that is the only reason why I am here.

We are all at Wild Trails by 7:00 p.m. having  been to places of interest around here and are shown our abodes for the night …..dinner is from 8:00 p.m. to 10:00 p,m.

These large canvas abodes are very much taller than the conventional ones where one is more in a crouched position until you retire for the night. These large ones had three compartments separated by zipping up celluloid flap ways. The front being a veranda with chairs to sit and gaze the outside while the center being the bed room with basic facilities that are to found in a hotel room but located differently around the three beds. The back compartment being the loo and the shower positioned on pebbles and paved stones: the shower was open to the sky. If not for the comfort of condition air in the room from a split unit A/C all the rest was on a natural setting with the  canvas adobes located alongside the River Walawe.

The timing being just after days of torrential rains in the country the reservoir was brimming and the sluices opened out releasing excess water to the river. This part of the river would otherwise be dry being very close to the earthen barrage built across the river to form the reservoir. We had the natural river flowing this day and a unique feeling for everyone for sure.

After a three course dinner had under candle light, the itinerary for the following day was discussed. Excepting for the three of us all the rest preferred to sleep in to the morning hours. Their preference was to sticking to the premises till noon. This is not why I am here; we request a jeep at six in the morning for a birding safari in the park…

The night was cool with the drizzle that continued deep into the night. The wet weather did away with the need for the A/C to keep on humming in to the night….. The melody of the rippling river outside the tent lulled us into deep slumber. Our weary limbs lay in comfort on clean bed linen under heavy canvas.

Yes… a different form of pampered luxury altogether.

We are up by 5:00 a.m. and I'm clad in earth colors for  birding. The overnight drizzle has taken away the thick dust clouds that would otherwise cover convoy of jeeps on these dirt tracks in the park. 

We  follow a different path from all the other jeeps that are to run behind each other looking for the elephants.

With the spring round the corner the peacocks were ready in their colorful long train feathers displaying in the morning light…..a qualification for the prospective maids.

The vast open expanse of Uda Walawe is ideal for viewing raptors round the year.

The Changeable Hawk Eagle and the Black-shouldered Kite are common residents over here.

The Common Kestrel a regular winter visitor was seen with a birdie prey in the distance.













This Barn Swallow preening in a prickly surround was a pleasing site  to watch. Away from the other jeeps the birdlife was all for us to keep.




The Orange-breasted Green Pigeon was no doubt the capture of the trip …it was just two meters away from the jeep and would not leave, for we were that quiet.

 

The pop……pop…….pop…..of the Coppersmith Barbet was heard in this fig tree. My random clicking on auto focus produced this unusual capture almost camouflaging it…. if not for the bright coloration of its head.





A Grey-breasted Priniya is very vociferous in saying……… I’m over here for you  to look at.




This juvenile Rufous-winged Bushlark was lazy on the ground. When active it would call loud and jump high into the sky to parachute into the grasses to attract the fairer sex.






A Little Green Bee-eater is a sight to watch. Leaving its perch to grab the insects in flight only to return to the same perch.
If you lost the focus to click it the fist time it is guaranteed  to return for you for the second click.
























This Red-wattled Lapwing was contrasted against a lake thick of green algae.

My longing to see the the Sirkeer Malkoha became a reality while at this pool. A bird of the dry parched shrub land, always on the move, a difficult one to capture. 

The Rosy Starling a migrant from the Indian Peninsular during this time of the year'

The Black-headed Munia

The Whooly-necked Stork

The torrential rains had swelled the reservoir and the tilapia had made its way to the rich grassy fodder the new water spread had brought in. Once the water reseeded the tilapia were marooned  bring about a feast on the fast food for the Jungle Crows.

Finally after almost three hours of birding we are closer to the gate and encounter  the elephants.




The worlds largest land animal in comparison to a White-breasted Kingfisher





Elephants in Udawalawe are constantly monitored under research study. This mother is under study and is wearing a radio collar.

This young calf from the orphanage has just been released to the wild

A memorable three hours spent but slightly disappointing for not having seen the Malabar Pied Horn-bill or the Grey Horn-bill, a very common sight over here, we are back at Wild Trails. We walk into a breakfast table laid for us...  our colleagues have just finished their breakfast.


Bags packed we leave the others behind on our second leg of the vacation to Arugam Bay in the East Coast of Sri Lanka.

The Toque Macaque …has its way in the temple

India and Sri Lanka are two prominent South Asian countries with similar religious beliefs; be it Hinduism or Buddhism both having links in the mainland India and Buddha himself being an Indian. Both religions are close to nature and much of the religious abbeys or temples are located in remote and wildly settings in close proximity to natural habitats away from urbanization. This helped them practice religion through yoga, meditation or even conduct themselves in devotion, living in recluse.

Offering on the altars in these temples were mainly of floral form and food; generally a major portion going waste by the day which was dumped close by. The waste disposed thus attracted both bird and beast in the wild. Of them the primates [monkey] took a dominant role. Hindu mythology offers a greater reverence to Hanuman [the monkey king - a god in the Saga-Ramayana] and thereby the monkey is considered sacred and is free to their wishes in many of these locations. The damage and annoyance caused by them is overlooked…. while the only reason for them to be attracted to these locations is the floral-waste and the food waste. Most species found in our countries are omnivorous and are attracted to human food types as well.

Sri Lanka is home for three monkey species; the Toque Macaque or Toque Monkey [Macaca sinica], the Grey Langur or Hanuman Monkey [Semnopithecus priam] and the Purple-face Leaf Monkey [Trachypithecus vetulus]. Of them the Toque Macaque and the Purple- face are endemic to Sri Lanka and the species sub-divided geographically for them being found island wide. The Grey Langur, predominantly a dry zone species is now making in-roads to the central massif. However of all the three species it is the Toque Macaque that has made its presence felt in most religious locations in Sri Lanka. Toque macaques are so named because of a whirl of hair on their head that resembles a type of hat. Its behaviour is best described in the documentary film shot on location of a scientific study on them by Dr Wolfgang Dittus in Polonnaruwa Sri Lanka. The documentary named “Temple Troop” became world famous and the story goes thus: 

 

   

The struggle between two macaque tribes: the Black Claws, and the Temple Troop. 

 

“The program begins with "Temple Troop", a troop of Toque macaques who live in a temple area known as Fig Tree Vale. The vale is abundant in figs and water. The troop was led by Lear, the king of the troop who had been its dominant male for 4 years. One of Lear's biggest concerns was the threat of deposal, and that threat came with the arrival of Hector. Hector had recently joined the troop and seemed discontent with his position within it. Hector challenged the old king and during a large scuffle, Lear fell to the ground from a tree, which cost him his throne. Hector was the new king of Temple Troop and took full advantage of his new authority. Hector bullied his subordinates, but to secure his regime, he needed the support of Gemini, the matriarch of the Troop. 

 

The Temple Troop's arch rivals, the Black Claws, invaded their territory, and drove the Temple Troop from it. Exiled to the bad lands, the troop were joined by a wandering male called Che, who proved to be an asset, especially to Gemini and Portia. They tried to invade a marketplace but were driven back to the bad lands by a city troop. As Che was settling into the troop, his wandering band of bachelor males returned, giving Hector an excuse to banish him. Che attacked his former band to remain in the troop, and later he convinced both groups to merge. 

 

With more warriors to fight the Black Claws the exile Temple Troop marched towards Fig Tree Vale to confront their ancient foes. 

Black Claws

The Black Claws are a street bred troop of Toque macaques who live in the periphery of Monkey City, relying on tourists for food. The troop's queen, Pandora, tried to use the opportunity of the Temple Troop males' supremacy battle to capture their abundant territory. She and the Black Claws are the drama's antagonists. 

 

The Black Claws' king Goliath led a small attack on the Vale; this was repulsed, but it was followed by a mass invasion from the entire Black Claw troop. Stronger and more numerous, the Black Claws prevailed in the ensuing battle, killing Lear, and expelling the Temple Troop from Monkey City. (The Black Claws had prospered under queen Pandora with the growth in city trash.) 

As Pandora settled into her new territory, a troop of Langur monkeys tried to capture Fig Tree Vale. The Black Claws drove them off, but Pandora disappeared and was found to have died of an unknown cause (ascribed by the program makers to having attacked the sacred Hanuman Langurs). Pandora's youngest daughter, Scarlett became the new queen of the Black Claws. The king of the Black Claws, Goliath, was concerned about the new matriarch, needing to win her favour to remain king. Scarlett was ruthless and greedy with food, not allowing the lower class near any figs. (The Black Claws, comprised two bickering clans: workers & aristocrats, both of which Pandora had dominated.) The leader of this lower clan was Jezebel, who was tired of Scarlett monopolizing the food. Unable to directly defeat Scarlett and her aristocratic sisters, Jezebel led her half of the troop back to their ancestral lands, the car park. To start a troop she needed a king, so she subverted a subordinate Black Claw aristocrat into defection. Scarlett responded with an attack on Jezebel's troop, making her back down. This civil war concludes as Temple Troop begin their march back to Fig Tree Vale.” 

 

[Curtsy http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dark_Days_in_Monkey_City]

 

Another location where the Toque Macaque is found in abundance is the Dambulla Rock Cave Temple in Sri Lanka located within the cultural triangle, a famous tourist and pilgrim location. Pilgrims have to climb the rock about a kilometer to reach the cave temple and one needs to carry your flowers for offering from the foot of the rock. Generally them being lotus pods, and the petals need to be opened to bloom for offering. The corolla of the lotus is a delicacy of the Toque Macaque. They would follow you behind stealthily up the rock and snatch your flowers if carried at leisure at lower arm level. This in a way is a reminder that you carry them at chest level with higher reverence and mindfulness. 

 Full-moon days [Poya-day] and weekends are very populous with visitors in Dambulla and the Toque Monkeys could be seen in abundance in all forms; be it new born young to pregnant females all making use of the fast-food available in the temple premises. On other days of the week they disperse into the forest to feed on the foliage. 

They have a prolific breeding pattern and the dominant male being of a higher order maintains a harem of females. When two troupes meet up its mayhem; the dominant males attacking each other, which at times end up with fatality. The winner would end up with a larger harem or a new male will take possession of the troop as leader.

Their habit of raiding agricultural plots and farmer homes has had an impact on the farming community and the Macaque being a victim to poisoning. Entire troops have been wiped out as a result. However those that habituate these religious abodes seem to thrive in their numbers with the freely available fast food source..........