Into the Wild: A Day Trip to Rathugala with a Plan and a Bit of Luck

 

It was sometime in April 2024 when my friend Anil Gammampila proposed a road trip — the kind that comes with a bit of wilderness, some architectural inspiration, and, knowing Anil, the full complement of wildlife camera gear packed for the unexpected.

The plan was simple. Anil had just acquired a property in Rathugala, deep in the Eastern Province of Sri Lanka — in the heart of Vedda country. The idea was to get a feel for the land, a preliminary exploration ahead of designing a jungle hideout on the site. Our mutual friend Nalinda, a gifted architect with an eye for harmony between structure and nature, was onboard to begin dreaming up what this hideout could be.

We set off before sunrise from Anil’s ancestral home in Dikkumbura. Five hours of winding roads and changing landscapes brought us to Rathugala. Along the way, we grabbed breakfast in Wellawaya, where we also told our hosts to expect us back for a very late lunch. Spirits were high; the morning air was cool, and Anil was already scanning the skies and treetops for any signs of wildlife.

When we finally reached the property, it was everything we hoped for — rugged, quiet, and full of potential. The terrain was rich and untouched, with thick jungle all around. As Nalinda took in the environment, ideas began to emerge: minimal footprint, open design, sustainable materials — a hideout that sits quietly within nature rather than against it. There’s something special about brainstorming in a place like this, away from screens and city noise, with the natural world as your backdrop.

Unfortunately, the wildlife wasn’t quite as cooperative. Despite Anil’s readiness, the forest kept its distance that day. With the initial discussions wrapped up and the light beginning to change, we decided to head back, anticipating the warm meal that waited for us in Wellawaya.

Only, it didn’t.

Our lunch plans fell through — the hosts, assuming we wouldn’t make it back, hadn’t prepared anything. Hungry and mildly disappointed, we pushed on in search of a nearby spot for rice and curry, which, in  truth, didn’t quite hit the mark either.

But then — a twist.

Just outside Thanamalwila, near the edges of Lunugamvehera National Park, we spot a parked safari jeep. Curious, Anil struck up a conversation with the driver. Turns out, he was waiting for a guest — an Austrian-American traveller named Andree — who had a few hours left in Sri Lanka and wanted to squeeze in a quick safari before flying home that night.

Anil, never short on charm or spontaneity, convinced him to split the fare and let us tag along. Andree, gracious and intrigued, agreed. And just like that, we were back in the wild, this time with a bit of luck on our side.

The safari proved worthwhile. We finally caught glimpses of wildlife — enough for Anil to get behind his lens and chase a few worthy shots. The light was soft, the landscape glowing in the late afternoon sun, and for a brief while, everything aligned — the road trip, the project, and the thrill of the wild.

We invited Andree to join us for a proper dinner and a few drinks en route to the airport. He was keen, but his tour operator wasn’t too thrilled about a detour that might risk a missed flight. Understandably, he had to decline.

As we watched his vehicle disappear into the dusk, we couldn’t help but laugh at the day’s unfolding. It had all the elements: an early start, a dream site, a failed lunch, a chance encounter, and finally, that magic moment in the jungle.

Designs will come, plans will be drawn, and construction will eventually begin. But it’s days like these,— spontaneous, unpredictable, and quietly beautiful — just reminding us why we do what we do.

 

A Windy Escape to Kalpitiya: A Family Getaway by the Lagoon

From November 10th to 13th, 2024, our family enjoyed a truly memorable escape in Kalpitiya, a serene coastal town on the northwestern tip of Sri Lanka. Originally, we had planned a trip to Arugam Bay, but heavy monsoon rains and a sudden security concern in the east forced us to rethink our plans. With our daughter Hiruni and her husband Mark visiting from the United States, Hemamala and I wanted to make sure their time in Sri Lanka was special, so we chose Kalpitiya, and it didn’t disappoint.

We travelled in a hired van and checked into Club Mango Resort on a quiet Sunday afternoon. To our surprise, we had the entire resort for the whole week—two private chalets, the pool, and peaceful decks overlooking the lagoon. The solitude was rare and refreshing.

Our first evening was spent soaking in the calm atmosphere. We relaxed on the decks by the water, then took a short trip into Kalpitiya town to explore the old Dutch fort—silent and crumbling if not for the Sri Lanka Navy that takes care of it, but filled with echoes of the past. We returned to the resort for dinner, our hearts full from the simple pleasure of being together.

Day Two: Books, Breezes, and Wading into the Wind

The second day unfolded gently. The morning was spent in perfect quiet—reading on the decks by the lagoon, with nothing but the breeze and birds for company. As the midday heat crept in, we shifted to the pool, floating and sipping cool drinks until late afternoon. That evening, we made our way on foot across the exposed sandbars of the lagoon, guided by a hotel staff member. The shallow waters sparkled as we waded toward the sea.

In the distance, kite surfers danced through the sky—Kalpitiya’s trademark activity. Mark was tempted, but certification was required to try it. Instead, we bathed where the sea met the lagoon, the sun dipping behind us in a fiery farewell to the day.

Day Three: A Journey by Boat and a Surprise in the Wild

The third day brought with it the most memorable experience of all. A boat ride, booked through the resort, took us on a 4–5-hour exploration of the deeper reaches of the Puttalam Lagoon and beyond.

Our first stop was a coastal church known for its healing powers, reminiscent of Velankanni in South India. From there, we reached the very tip of the sandbar that defines the Puttalam Lagoon—a dramatic and little-known geographic landmark. Next, we travelled into the Wilpattu National Park, visiting a solitary Baobab tree, standing tall and surreal in the Sri Lankan wilderness.

But the true surprise came unexpectedly. As the boat turned into a quiet river bend, we came face to face with a wild elephant calmly drinking from the riverbank. Both parties startled, we locked eyes for a breathless moment—a pure and unexpected gift of nature.

The final stop took us to the black sandbanks, where the heavy, mineral-rich sand slipped like metal through our fingers. Along the way, birdlife of all kinds—herons, eagles, and waterfowl—filled the skies and waters, adding music to the journey.

Back at the resort, we cooled off in the pool with cocktails and cold beers, grateful for a day that offered both serenity and spectacle. One comical footnote: we learned that when the famous Kalpitiya wind dies down, things get very sticky—cue the arrival of every flying insect imaginable! That afternoon became a bit of a “Pandora’s box” of buzzing companions until the wind graciously returned.

Day Four: A Wild Send-Off from Wilpattu

Our final morning in Kalpitiya began long before dawn. With our stay limited to three nights, we wanted to end it on a high note—with a proper safari into Wilpattu National Park. At 5:00 AM, we checked out of Club Mango Resort, breakfast packs in hand, and began the 40+ km journey inland. A safari jeep was waiting for us at the park entrance, arranged by the hotel’s trip facilitator.

Mark, travelling on a US passport, got a sharp reminder of international pricing disparities—his ticket was substantially more expensive, but it was worth every cent. In just over 90 minutes, we had multiple leopard sightings, a rare treat in any Sri Lankan safari. Midway through the drive, nature called and we paused for a general loo stop—a standard part of the program. But in the brief moment we let our guard down, a troop of marauding macaques made their move. With ninja-like precision and the confidence of seasoned thieves, they snatched our breakfast packs right off the seats. One even gave us what looked suspiciously like a smug grin before vanishing into the underbrush with a sandwich.

Though we narrowly missed spotting a sloth bear, the park’s raw beauty, abundant wildlife, and that cheeky monkey ambush more than made up for it.

By mid-morning, we were back on the road, heading south for the long drive home to Galle—tired, dusty, but completely satisfied.

Final Reflections: Kalpitiya’s Charm and Caution

Kalpitiya may not have been our original plan, but it gifted us everything we didn’t know we needed: peace, wind, wildness, and space to reconnect as a family. Club Mango Resort was a quiet gem, and we’d recommend it without hesitation to anyone seeking a secluded getaway with rustic charm.

One word of advice: never underestimate the wind. It brings the magic of kite surfing, keeps the insects at bay, and gives Kalpitiya its unique character. But if it stops, even briefly—brace yourself!

Still, as travel stories go, this one will stay with us for a long time. Kalpitiya surprised us—and sometimes, the best trips are the ones you never meant to take.

FOGSL Goes Vintage?

The Field Ornithology Group of Sri Lanka (FOGSL) was established in the Zoology Department of the University of Colombo in 1976 to promote birding, ornithology, and nature conservation. FOGSL serves as a platform for people from all walks of life to interact and engage in these activities. However, it wasn't until 20 years later that a dedicated membership was formed, allowing members to explore birding locations across the country for research and identification. At that time, the techniques and equipment used were quite primitive, and the task of recording sightings was largely limited to the records of the Ceylon Bird Club, which were accessible only to its members.

Initially, small groups ventured into remote areas of the country using buses, later transitioning to hired vans as FOGSL’s organizational efforts improved. Accommodations were basic and rough during these early excursions. This trend continued until around 2010 when birding began to evolve significantly due to advancements in digital equipment and the availability of universal databases accessible to everyone for free.

Today, the binoculars that were once considered essential for birding have largely been replaced by digital cameras with zoom lenses, allowing birdwatchers to capture images from a distance. Apps like “Merlin Bird ID,” developed by Cornell University Labs, list virtually all possible birds in any location worldwide, enabling users to compare their photographs or recorded bird songs to identify species. This has resulted in sightings of rare birds in unusual locations, with many enthusiasts becoming adept at bird identification.

The landscape of birding has changed; the days of roughing it in the field are largely over. Today’s birdwatchers often seek more comfort during their travels and accommodations, resembling more of a "birding tourist." FOGSL now operates more like a tour operator, facilitating three- to four-night tours to various locations, which include obtaining access to parks and booking comfortable transport and lodging in motels.

The original FOGSL has now gained a vintage status. Many of its founding members have aged, and some are no longer with us. To foster goodwill and fellowship, Sandum Jayawardane established a WhatsApp group called ‘Vintage FOG,’ bringing together former members of FOGSL to reminisce about the past. Among the earliest members, the eldest today is Mr. Wilson Kulasuriya, affectionately known as Uncle Wilson, from Galle, and Mr. Rex De Silva from Piliyandala. Due to his advanced age of 87, Wilson is now limited to staying indoors and is unable to attend excursions. As a gesture of goodwill, the Vintage FOG group made a courtesy visit to Wilson's home on July 20, 2024. I organized a packed lunch with assistance from Hememala, which greatly uplifted Uncle Wilson’s spirits, accompanied by songs and some wine. We spent the entire day there and returned to Colombo after enjoying evening tea. It was a truly heartwarming experience.

UdithaWijesena