A Windy Escape to Kalpitiya: A Family Getaway by the Lagoon

From November 10th to 13th, 2024, our family enjoyed a truly memorable escape in Kalpitiya, a serene coastal town on the northwestern tip of Sri Lanka. Originally, we had planned a trip to Arugam Bay, but heavy monsoon rains and a sudden security concern in the east forced us to rethink our plans. With our daughter Hiruni and her husband Mark visiting from the United States, Hemamala and I wanted to make sure their time in Sri Lanka was special, so we chose Kalpitiya, and it didn’t disappoint.

We travelled in a hired van and checked into Club Mango Resort on a quiet Sunday afternoon. To our surprise, we had the entire resort for the whole week—two private chalets, the pool, and peaceful decks overlooking the lagoon. The solitude was rare and refreshing.

Our first evening was spent soaking in the calm atmosphere. We relaxed on the decks by the water, then took a short trip into Kalpitiya town to explore the old Dutch fort—silent and crumbling if not for the Sri Lanka Navy that takes care of it, but filled with echoes of the past. We returned to the resort for dinner, our hearts full from the simple pleasure of being together.

Day Two: Books, Breezes, and Wading into the Wind

The second day unfolded gently. The morning was spent in perfect quiet—reading on the decks by the lagoon, with nothing but the breeze and birds for company. As the midday heat crept in, we shifted to the pool, floating and sipping cool drinks until late afternoon. That evening, we made our way on foot across the exposed sandbars of the lagoon, guided by a hotel staff member. The shallow waters sparkled as we waded toward the sea.

In the distance, kite surfers danced through the sky—Kalpitiya’s trademark activity. Mark was tempted, but certification was required to try it. Instead, we bathed where the sea met the lagoon, the sun dipping behind us in a fiery farewell to the day.

Day Three: A Journey by Boat and a Surprise in the Wild

The third day brought with it the most memorable experience of all. A boat ride, booked through the resort, took us on a 4–5-hour exploration of the deeper reaches of the Puttalam Lagoon and beyond.

Our first stop was a coastal church known for its healing powers, reminiscent of Velankanni in South India. From there, we reached the very tip of the sandbar that defines the Puttalam Lagoon—a dramatic and little-known geographic landmark. Next, we travelled into the Wilpattu National Park, visiting a solitary Baobab tree, standing tall and surreal in the Sri Lankan wilderness.

But the true surprise came unexpectedly. As the boat turned into a quiet river bend, we came face to face with a wild elephant calmly drinking from the riverbank. Both parties startled, we locked eyes for a breathless moment—a pure and unexpected gift of nature.

The final stop took us to the black sandbanks, where the heavy, mineral-rich sand slipped like metal through our fingers. Along the way, birdlife of all kinds—herons, eagles, and waterfowl—filled the skies and waters, adding music to the journey.

Back at the resort, we cooled off in the pool with cocktails and cold beers, grateful for a day that offered both serenity and spectacle. One comical footnote: we learned that when the famous Kalpitiya wind dies down, things get very sticky—cue the arrival of every flying insect imaginable! That afternoon became a bit of a “Pandora’s box” of buzzing companions until the wind graciously returned.

Day Four: A Wild Send-Off from Wilpattu

Our final morning in Kalpitiya began long before dawn. With our stay limited to three nights, we wanted to end it on a high note—with a proper safari into Wilpattu National Park. At 5:00 AM, we checked out of Club Mango Resort, breakfast packs in hand, and began the 40+ km journey inland. A safari jeep was waiting for us at the park entrance, arranged by the hotel’s trip facilitator.

Mark, travelling on a US passport, got a sharp reminder of international pricing disparities—his ticket was substantially more expensive, but it was worth every cent. In just over 90 minutes, we had multiple leopard sightings, a rare treat in any Sri Lankan safari. Midway through the drive, nature called and we paused for a general loo stop—a standard part of the program. But in the brief moment we let our guard down, a troop of marauding macaques made their move. With ninja-like precision and the confidence of seasoned thieves, they snatched our breakfast packs right off the seats. One even gave us what looked suspiciously like a smug grin before vanishing into the underbrush with a sandwich.

Though we narrowly missed spotting a sloth bear, the park’s raw beauty, abundant wildlife, and that cheeky monkey ambush more than made up for it.

By mid-morning, we were back on the road, heading south for the long drive home to Galle—tired, dusty, but completely satisfied.

Final Reflections: Kalpitiya’s Charm and Caution

Kalpitiya may not have been our original plan, but it gifted us everything we didn’t know we needed: peace, wind, wildness, and space to reconnect as a family. Club Mango Resort was a quiet gem, and we’d recommend it without hesitation to anyone seeking a secluded getaway with rustic charm.

One word of advice: never underestimate the wind. It brings the magic of kite surfing, keeps the insects at bay, and gives Kalpitiya its unique character. But if it stops, even briefly—brace yourself!

Still, as travel stories go, this one will stay with us for a long time. Kalpitiya surprised us—and sometimes, the best trips are the ones you never meant to take.