Autumn Colours

Not many of us living in the tropics get to experience the four climatic seasons of the temperate zone. We are more familiar to the monsoon effected wet and dry climatic seasons of the tropics. I was at the right place at the right time in October 2011 as a member of our family visiting the Great Smoky Mountains in Tennessee USA. 

It is common to visit the Smokies in the Appalachian Range in the fall to glimpse the changing colour hues of the forest foliage before they are shed for the winter.  

The otherwise sleepy town of Gatlinberg becomes a renowned ski station with high activity during the winter. 

Why Build to Last… ?

Did the social structure prevent our ancestors from building to last, or were they more environment concern?

Ancient man needed to build to protect him from the elements and the wild. The habit of living in naturally formed caverns changed with the increase in population. Abodes were needed; and these he built. These primitive constructions were of basic woody forest material and stone that was arranged to a technique. Those that mastered the technique started to build for others. This is thought to be the inception of building construction. These basics became a trade later on; there came the Builder / Owner (Investor), Designer (Architect, Engineer) and tradesmen who performed the works to precision, aesthetics and ingenuity.  This organized form of building is what we see as preserved ruins in the Rajarata [land of the kings] Sri Lanka today. Some of these Sri Lankan constructions are absolute marvels and are purposive and meaningful to most that cater similar purposes today. They could be classified as general purposes constructions and those that pose constructive creativity. The stone flights of Mihintale, the Kuttam Pokuna the Dagabas and Samadhi Statue of Anuradapura, the Vatadage, statues of Galvihara and the Nissanaka Latha Mandapa of Polonnaruwa, the citadel and pleasure gardens of Sigiriya, are of extreme artistry and creativity. The canal ‘Yoda Ela’ from Kala Wewa to Tissa Wewa is a master piece in hydraulic engineering.

Samadhi Statue of Meditating Buddha  at Mahamewuna Uyana in Anuradhapura  is a marvel of stone sculpture

Numerous are these guard stones at entrances to buildings done to extreme detail and fineness

Man & Horse in Isurumunuya that give life to stone........

It is interesting to note that the royalty had ample resources and manpower in these feats. The services of the best artisans were decreed as royal duty. There were no planned time lines for completion. Some constructions spanned a whole regime and even finished in the next.

However it should also be noted that there was to be constructions outside those that had state patronage; they were the abodes of the socially elite and those of the commoner.

“R L Brohier the famous author/ historian and Asst Surveyor General of post independent Sri Lanka estimates that the ancient bund of the Parakrama Samudra in Polonnaruwa contained 4.5 million cubic yards of earthwork and a thousand men working a 24 hour day with mammoty [hand hoe] and basket without a break would have taken 12 years to complete that structure alone. It should be borne in mind that other non-productive [food and agriculture being classified as productive] construction such as the Sigiriya citadel and numerous other Dagabas  were constructed simultaneously. There would not have been a lack manpower or time on these endeavours.” 

This then is a lot of people and where did they live?

Colossus Dagaba made of Bricks

This amount of bricks in a Dagaba did have an impact on the environment

The dwellings of these clans were to have had a type and quality that followed a social hierarchy. Some of which remain to this day for us to take note of. The palaces of the last Kandian kingdom of the 18th century are intact while the palaces of Parakramabahu the Great in the 11th century are ruined but stand strong against the elements. Some abodes of the immediate hierarchical order to the kings; the walawas of the disawes are still to be seen as they are preserved as archaeological entities. They would integrate to the surrounding environment if not preserved never to be located as the material used is woody and earthly in nature. [Example; Maduwanwela and Ekneligoda walawas] Therefore it could be assumed the abodes of the commoner placed in the lower tiers of the social hierarchy have integrated into mother earth.

However the science of archaeology can locate such human gatherings from remains of material used for human activity. One primary find is the vast spread of broken pottery that is to be found in these locations. Ancient man too needed utensils and the technique was to burn clay to various shapes. Doing this he transformed the natural texture of clay, which was never to blend with the nature of the earth and its natural form. These then left a sign of their presence in the locations. Therefore burning clay to shape could be described as one of the foremost ways man impacted the earth’s environment. Burnt bricks, dressing stone to shape, blended mortar binders that stuck sand and stone together are changed forms of naturally occurring earth matter that did not blend or integrate with earth’s environment. Therefore it could be derived that much of the building material used by the lower tiers in the social hierarchy in Sri Lanka were of natural form that integrated and blended with nature other than the pottery.

It is also interesting to note that such material and stone in its natural form is still being used by peasantry in remote, rural Sri Lanka. 

A woody and earthen abode of a Niglala family

Natural stone slab and grinding stone with wood stemmed coconut scraper typical use of earth matter in natural from in Nilgala  Sri Lanka

Beru (Agrostistachy serumica) leaf as roof covering  in the rainforest areas of Sri Lanka where other types of common roof-cover material was not available

However these primitive changes to earth’s material were to take a different turn after the year 1824. Joseph Aspdin, a bricklayer and mason in Leeds England, invented and patented hydraulic cement which he called Portland cement because its colour resembled the stone quarried on the Isle of Portland off the British coast. Aspdin proportioned limestone and clay which he pulverizing and burned to give clinker; clinker ground to a very fine powder gave cement. Portland cement mixed to proportion with coarse and fine aggregates and water to specific volumes gave the super construction material concrete that could be moulded to any shape. It did not stop at that, concrete reinforced with steel surpassed all previous construction marvels, and sky was the limit in the building industry.

End of the medieval era brought changes to the world’s social structure that did away with feudalism, and with human rights established; every man was free to build with economies changing to suite. This is where we stand today. One need to imagine the impact imparted on mother earth in producing over 1.8 million tons of cement and 130 tons of steel a year; blasting rock and mining sand as ingredients for concrete; added to this are other construction materials, ceramic and aluminium.  The most critical being that, cement and concrete matter with ceramic and paints included would not integrate to the earth’s natural form and recycling them is very costly. The changed social structure made it possible for all of us to build to our affordability in a limitless manner. Every one of us leaves a building footprint on mother earth unlike the ordinary man of the medieval and pre-medieval era. Today’s human dwelling is more a status symbol, than a need. In building so, we have impacted the earth’s environment; pictured in Google Earth is evidence of what we've done to mother earth in the last century.

Anuradhapura today when compared to the old area on the left. All the speckles would leave a footprint that would not blend with earth matter.

The Covered Bridge of Bogoda.........A Temple in Badulla Sri Lanka

I am in Badulla waiting for a call from my daughter to pick her at the University. I get the call but she says her submissions are getting delayed and we will need to stay overnight instead; I have a day to spend in Badulla. I need to find a way to kill time. I have already visited Dunhinda Falls, Muthiyangana Temple, Dova Temple etc.

I reach for the book in the glove compartment; The Handbook for the Ceylon Traveller – by  Studio Times of Nihal Fernando fame. My  scanning eyes stop at a chapter under Badulla; “Something unusual – unique really – is the wooden bridge by the Bogoda temple. The unusual feature of this ancient bridge which spans the Gallanda Oya is the roof, clad with tiles of the Kandyan period. A beautiful drawing of the bridge can be seen in ‘Vihares and Verandhas’   by Barbara Sansoni.”

I am now on my way to this really unique bridge. At Hali-ela I turn right to Ketawala and on a very rugged road from Ketawala, I come to the temple at Bogoda. A steep flight of steps descend to a rock caved temple of the Kandyan period and opposite the shrine room is the roofed bridge leading to nowhere. I am alone in this serene locality when the lay care taker of the shrine room opens the door for me. I ask him for the priest and he tells me “Hamuduruwo diva viharanaya karanawa”, the most humble and respected way of saying the priest is resting after the mid-day meal. He was so humble and I decide to ask him about the bridge and its roof. He tells me that the bridge severed as a crossing on the ancient route to Kandy from Badulla. I take some good pictures of the bridge and the temple, contribute to the electricity bill of the temple and return to the motel.

I go back memory lane and recall the historic novel by W T Keble – “Son of the Lion.“ Keble proudly narrates about King Senarath [a Buddhist monk before] who marries his brother’s widow Kusumasana Devi (Dona Catherina), marching to Badulla with the Kandyan Sinhala army that routed the Portuguese armies at Randeniwela in Wellawaya. He directed his army from Badulla where he later builds a palace as well.  I now trace this ancient route to Badulla on Google maps. Gallanda Oya falls to Uma Oya, a main tributary of River Mahaveli which meets the latter at Rantembe. Rantembe Gorge was the narrowest point on the Mahaveli River and may have had a  crossover bridge to reach the ancient road to Kandy on the left bank of Mahaveli. This is now a paved road leading to Mahiyangana. The ancient route up to the crossing at Rantambe may have been along the banks of Uma Oya and Gallanda Oya to Badulla via Hali-ela.

The Rantambe gorge has legend related to King Rajasinghe II, son of King Senerath who is said to have cleared the gorge on horseback. It is sad though…….. The Rantambe gorge is no more and my attempt to find an old picture or drawing of it did not bear fruit either. It was blasted to make room for the Rantembe Dam; the last of a series on the Mahaveli for hydro power.

And for the roof cover… of the engineering aspect one could say a roof over a timber bridge would give extra strength to the bridge as it acts as a truss. But in this case it is more a protection from the elements. This cannot be the first bridge at this location. There would have been many such built of timber that perished with time. A roof over it would extend its serviceability.

Covered Bridge at Bogoda

Support needed for preservation

 Really unique

 Aesthetics that pleased the weary foot traveler 

Carved symmetry

Monolith trees that span a Oya [creek] now preserved from elements

Buddhist Shrine Chamber of Kandyan Architecture

A Window that has links to the Dutch Period

Door frame and ironmongery of the Kandyan period

Ancient bell now hung on a roof beam - possibly after the collapse of the belfry

Solid timber sashes hinged to solid timber frame at top and bottom - Typical Kandyan joinery

Humble was he

The back of the door was not painted - it is not visible when closed or opened fully - saving resources

These murals need attention - the use of the key over the years

Nilaveli...... still has its splendour

Nilaveli; A beach front with its wide and tranquil sands; "Pigeon Islands" a kilometer away, was a secret locality in  Pura-male, Trincomalee in the sixties and even early seventies. The tourism that was to exploit Trinco and other locates in the east coast then, did not exploit Nilaveli...... until now. It still has only one hotel that exist to this day.

In the by gone era it was the Pigeon Islands that was of fame with the only true colony of  'Rock Pigeon' species that was to roost and exist on them; all the other Rock Pigeons that are encountered day to day in the city are but feral descendant of pets......  now pests.

Pigeon Islands  consists of two islands; the large island and small island. The large island is surrounded by a coral reef and is an extent about 200 m X 100 m. The small island is but a rocky outcrop. Them were designated as sanctuaries in the year 1963 based on the Rock Pigeon habitat and later declared National Parks in 2003.

I don't really get the criteria right of the Department of Wildlife Conservation [DWC] upgrading sanctuaries to  National Parks. All I have seen is when the numbers of people visiting a sanctuary  increases, it becomes a National Park with an entrance fee. It happened in Horton Plains, Bundala, Kaudulla and now Pigeon Islands.

  

Ever since the war ended and people started traveling with the new economic growth etc, Nilaveli was to be a frequented location and the boat rides to the Pigeon Islands became a thriving business. And here comes the DWC with an extra  fee for the boat rider.......... ? There is but hardly any Pigeons on them now but People; never mind what comes by to the delicate habitat from over visiting.

These pics were taken in 2010 when I was on assignment in Trinco and stayed overnight at the Nilaveli Beach Hotel.

Pigeon Island

Wide and Sandy

Blue is the Theme

Sky - Sea - Beach

Solitaire

Business

Relax

People are traveling 

 Sun Rise the Following Day

 

 

The ‘Oo’ gene… the British preferred…

Man’s primitive means of communication was the human voice.  Various sounds at various intensity levels may have been adapted to communicate, depending on the distance of the receiver. Beyond the distance of hearing; a symbolic note on leaf or papyrus, hand delivered would have fulfilled the need…. This is thought to be the inception of language.

When the distance was large and intercepted different communities having the same sounds and symbols giving different messages, the free flow of knowledge was interrupted. When a community was superior in knowledge, so was the language adopted by them.The superior language overran other languages. This is shown as the Western domination in the world.

The English Language became a ‘Kaduwa’ in Sri Lanka.

This domination is researched by Tissa Devendra, the english writer author GA [not forgetting the Sinahala writing GAA Leel Gunasekara, Amara Hewa Madduma & Amaradasa Gunawardana] in his book a Quest for Shangri-La. In this book he discusses how the Englishman set about writing  Sinhala sounds in the English language. There isn’t a formal way to interpret the sound ‘oo’ other than when in the use as in ‘book’, ‘look’ or ‘nook’. Thus he wrote Labukele Estate as ‘Labookellie Estate’. This deviation of writing was later adapted to show a social difference in society. Those Sinhala families who embraced the English culture and needed identification in the elite social class preferred writing their names in this form. They were the Goonathilake, Goonawardane and those that ended with an ‘e’ as in wardane, thillake and naike. He also says that these families invariably tendered to be Christians in the 19^th century, for the simple reason that the British favoured those in this faith.

However by the 20^th century with the spread of English education the not so elite preferred to write their names in the simple form with the use of the letter ‘u’ for ‘oo’ and ended with an ‘a’ for an ‘e’. Them now are said to outnumber the former as given in the new Telephone Directory, says Tissa Devendra.

The British left us independent in 1948………or was it the other way round? ……for their presence is very much felt even in this 21^st century. 

It’s a funny world…………………and if you can read these boards on the way to Badulla passing Bandarawela…..…you can be sure... you still have that 19^th century gene………… the British preferred.